Casa Lis Museum: Salamanca’s Dreamy Blend of Art Nouveau and Art Deco
March 22, 2025 in Design & Décor by Charlotte Sinclair
Casa Lis, now known as the Museum of Art Nouveau and Art Deco in Salamanca, strikes visitors as a place born from an eccentric dream—perhaps that of a turn-of-the-century industrialist deciding an elegant hangar would be the pinnacle of luxury. In many ways, that’s precisely its origin story.
Miguel de Lis, a wealthy local leather magnate, envisioned his personal home as a statement in Art Nouveau. He entrusted the ambitious project to architect Joaquín de Vargas, whose clear inclination toward industrial aesthetics led to a unique fusion of styles. Vargas, responsible also for Salamanca's Mercado de Abastos, created an eccentric building characterized by metal frameworks, luminous stained-glass windows, and ornate stairways connecting multiple garden terraces. Amidst Salamanca’s timeless Renaissance backdrop, Casa Lis boldly stood out, daringly modern and provocatively industrial.
However, as with many ambitious projects, maintaining Casa Lis proved challenging. Ownership changed hands multiple times, and by the 1970s, the grandiose mansion had fallen into abandonment, its splendor fading rapidly. Rescue came through municipal efforts in the late 20th century, and in the 1990s, Casa Lis transformed into a museum, thanks to the extensive collections donated by antique dealer Manuel Ramos Andrade.
Today, the museum offers an intriguing collection focused on Art Nouveau and Art Deco, presenting a curious juxtaposition of masterpieces and kitsch. Among genuinely outstanding pieces from masters like Lalique, Gallé, and Fabergé, visitors also encounter rooms filled with repetitive porcelain figurines—exuberant dancers, grandiose Valkyries, and dramatically posed nude figures seemingly mass-produced without artistic passion. This eclectic mixture isn’t surprising, given that the collection reflects the eye of an antique dealer rather than that of a discerning patron of the arts.
Yet, despite—or perhaps because of—this uneven collection, Casa Lis maintains an enchanting appeal. The building itself is an architectural delight, offering splendid views over the river, a charming café beneath dazzling stained glass, and an immersive experience akin to wandering through a slightly surreal dream of the Belle Époque.
Visitors should, perhaps, approach Casa Lis cautiously—too many porcelain nymphs could indeed affect one's aesthetic health—but the experience remains utterly captivating, compellingly dreamy, and undeniably memorable.
